Nowadays you can automate this process by getting misting systems or installing foggers with a separate Hydrotherm to start and stop the device as needed. You don’t need to keep it that high all the time though. That means raising the humidity up to 80% or 90% each day. Mist twice each day, or as much as you need to keep the humidity within the recommended levels.įrom my experience, Red-Eyed Tree Frogs enjoy a moderate humidity level with a nice spike in humidity once a day. I tend to agree with the latter.įor mine, I do my best to never let the relative humidity drop below 50%. Many people argue these frogs do better in high humidity while others claim a moderate humidity with occasional spikes is most suitable. The humidity can fluctuate throughout the day. Be sure to change out the water as it becomes dirty.

These agents dechlorinate the water and make it safe for frogs.Īll your RETF needs is a small, shallow water dish filled with clean, dechlorinated water. So, I recommend checking out a safe-water guide for amphibians or, if nothing else, utilizing a water conditioner like ReptiSafe. Unfortunately for amphibians, it can be harmful to them. They’re intended to clean the water, making it more suitable for human consumption. Tap water is often treated with chemicals like chlorine, fluoride, and chloramine. Not only that, chemicals in water affect your pet as well. That means the chemicals lingering on your hands can be transferred to your frog while handling them. Frogs have semi-permeable skin, allowing them to absorb things through their skin. Water QualityĪs with all amphibians, the quality of water used in their enclosure is important. If this interests you, I recommend checking out the vivarium substrate section in my frog enclosure substrate guide and doing further research on this topic. Using an ABG mix works best when you include microfauna and leaf litter, which is by no means a requirement in caring for Red-Eyed Tree Frogs. Should you decide to set up a vivarium, where live plants are being utilized, I recommend trying an ABG mix something designed for growing plants. Adding coco husk chips and sphagnum moss into the coco fiber substrate is another option but certainly not required. For a basic RETF setup using fake plants, I recommend using a coco fiber substrate. SubstrateĬhoosing a substrate really depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. A thermostat will help regulate the temperature but shut off the heater (lamp, heat emitter, heat mat, etc) when the temperature reaches a certain degree. It’s always a good idea to pair a heating device with a thermostat. This will give your Red-Eyed Tree Frogs the option to move to a warmer or cooler portion of the terrarium as they see fit. Whether you use a basking lamp or a heating pad, just do your best to create a temperature gradient within their enclosure. This is only temporary until I get a heating pad. Towards the bottom of the enclosure, the temperature drops to the upper 70s.Īt nighttime, I switch the basking light off and let the room temperature drop their enclosure to the low 70s. It makes the top portion of the terrarium around 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This means you need a heater.Ĭurrently, I’m using an old basking lamp I had laying around. At night time, the heat can fall to the low 70s without any worry. The recommended temperature ranges from the upper 70s to the mid-80s during the day. UVB is fine so long as it’s low-powered I wouldn’t use anything over 2.0 personally. I recommend a low-powered LED grow light. Again, special lighting is not needed for the frogs but certain plantlife needs a grow light. A day and night cycle can consist of 12 – 14 hours of light and 10 – 12 hours of dark.Īnother reason you may need lighting is for live plants. Should you happen to place their enclosure in a room with little or no sunlight from a window, then you need to give them a light. They do, however, require a constant day and night cycle. UVB may provide small benefits for vitamin D3 but I’ve yet to find a study that proves this. Since these frogs are nocturnal, special UVB lighting is not required. They will drink water droplets that collect on the leaves within the terrarium, the water dish is just for soaking their skin. I’m using an extra-large Exo Terra water dish because it’s all I have available at the moment.īe sure to keep the water shallow within the dish. In terms of the water dish, most will suffice, so long as the water is shallow. They’re not fantastic swimmers and they don’t require a lot of water. Place a small, shallow water dish in the cage. Related: The 3 Best Starter Kits for Tree Frogs Mine tend to prefer thin leaves, but I’ve seen them sleeping on basically all the plant leaves in their enclosure at one point or another. These tree frogs love to sleep on leaves.

Simon curtis tree frog